It seems a little counter-intuitive but today's newest and most modern cuts draw inspiration from the "modern" vintage cuts of the 60's. Confusing enough? Fact is the cut of suit that is classified as Modern really is the new updated silhouette for suits ... its just 50 years old! MOD styling was a revolutionary change in form and function in mens suits during the early to mid sixties and just like anything that is worth its salt, decades later it still just as fashionable and stylish.
Many designers draw on the MOD look for inspiration in their own collections, most will only implement little cues and details. No major design house really puts a focus on recreating the look, authentically speaking. This leaves suit aficionados with a couple of choices to get what they are looking for - Vintage suits or Custom.
Vintage suits of course are a great way to go as always they will be the most authentic. The problem is most of the truly great versions of these suits are hard to come by and if you are lucky enough to find one, a 50+ year old suit in great condition is near unheard of. Yet many swear this is the only way to go. The trade-off is basically style for function.
Custom suits are the best alternative for someone looking to get the modern styling and maintain the functionality of a suit that is wearable every day. The biggest challenge is finding a custom tailor that understands the details and philosophy behind these masterpieces. The best thing is to be educated before you shop.
Here are some things you will want to keep in mind when ordering custom modern suits:
- Look to start with heavier fabrics. This is the basic starting point for a vintage look. MOD suits did not use "super" ultra light weight wools. They used heavy gaberdine's, tweeds and shark skins some weighing as much as 15 oz per yard.
- Stay consistent with the details. MOD suits were known for their skinny lapels, short jackets and high button stances. If you do not like ALL the details about the cut it might be best to skip the look all together.
- The Trousers. Keep them flat front and with no belt loops. No one wore these suits with a belt. Have your custom tailors sew in suspender buttons and adjuster tabs. This will help keep your pants up where they should be.
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